Beer of the Week: Juniper Flats

Nothing speaks to the deep-seated camaraderie of the craft-beer industry quite like collaboration beers. This is especially true of collaborative ales and lagers that go beyond one-time affairs and become annual traditions. Such creations communicate authentic collegialism and friendships within the industry, while giving those breweries’ fans something to look forward to…and often something quite delicious. Such is the case with this week’s featured beer, Juniper Flats. This collaborative cool-weather seasonal was first conjured years ago by a pair of back-country beer operations, Julian Beer Co. and Ramona’s Smoking Cannon Brewery. It has since resurfaced, and in doing so, is pleasing longtime fans while introducing newcomers to a rather obscure style: sahti. A farmhouse ale of sorts with roots in Finland, it derives most of its flavor from juniper berries and branches from the trees or shrubs on which they grow. I’ll allow Julian Beer Head Brewer Matthew Pittman to share details on how this sahti was produced, while I provide some sensory notes. Pouring a deep copper hue with a diminutive white head, it smells of gin (not surprising considering the prominence of juniper berries in that spirit) with a touch of caramel. On the tongue, an evergreen woodiness comes on strong, converting to something coconut-like with undertones of dried blueberry and savory leaves. It’s a complex flavor profile that works for fall and winter weather (especially since, apparently, San Diego now has seasons). Available solely at the source, it’s worth a drive to Julian, a woodsy getaway-ville providing a perfect backdrop for this nature-driven, Finnish beverage.

Juniper Flats is a historic Finnish-style ale using juniper branches in the mash. The berries and branches impart a piney spiciness typical of juniper, as well as some woodiness and coconut flavors. Sticking closely to the traditional methods, hops are not used in the boil for any bittering effect and only one pound is added at flame out. The boil is for only 15 minutes. As has been our annual tradition, we all arrive at the brewery in the early morning, gather for coffee and a quick chat before heading down Banner Grade to a private spread of land in the high desert near Shelter Valley. We cut what we believe to be enough juniper for the brew batch, fill the bed of the truck and drive back up the hill to the brewhouse. This beer has been an annual collaboration effort between Julian Beer Co. and Smoking Cannon, and this batch comes in at 8.2% (alcohol-by-volume).”

Matthew Pittman, Head Brewer, Julian Beer Co.