Beer of the Week: Lodge Life

Count me as one of the converts who, increasingly impressed with the rising quality in non-alcoholic (N/A) beer offerings over the past half-decade or so, has come to realize they have value and that there is a wide variety of occasions for enjoying them. Most involve outdoor and exercise-related activities. It’s a key reason so many non-alcoholic craft beers come in on the lighter side of the color spectrum, taking the form of sun-friendly lagers, blonde ales and IPAs. So, too, is the fact that those are the most popular beer styles among consumers. While many of these next-level N/As feature stacked hop bills lending vibrant tropical, citrus and stone-fruit character, many of my favorite modern-era 0.5%-or-under (in terms of alcohol-by-volume) offerings get the bulk of their flavor from deeply kilned specialty malts. Unhampered by any would-be alcoholic bite, one is able to truly savor and appreciate a well-crafted malt bill. And, bonus for pastry-stout fans, those roasty, bready backdrops serve as ideal canvases for adding a variety of confectionery adjuncts. Proof comes via this week’s featured beer, Lodge Life. A seasonal from the country’s largest N/A brewing company, Athletic Brewing (the West Coast headquarters for which is in San Diego’s Miramar area), it’s a stout-inspired brew that, in addition to emulating the flavor of a classic campfire treat, is built to be a virgin winter warmer. An alluring nose offers aromas of cocoa, cinnamon and cola. Those sensory notes carry over to the taste buds, where they are joined by vanilla and maple, finishing out with light roast and subtle woodiness. In addition to being tasty (we’re talking straight-up “yummy” territory here), Lodge Life offers the greatest depth of flavor I’ve experienced when drinking non-alcoholic beer. Ditto its body, which is formidable and, as designed, well-suited for colder winter temperatures. When tasting my first (and what I thought may well be my last) “near-beer” a quarter-of-a-century ago, I could never have imagined something this impressive joining its ranks. Bursting with flavors both bold and nostalgic, it’s something special.

The creation of Lodge Life was an all-hands-on-deck project. It was one of the first recipes out of our San Diego brewery to be crafted from a feeling rather than a flavor. Inspired by the cozy embrace of sitting around a campfire after a day on the slopes, this complex, fuller-bodied and decadent dark brew captures a sense of warmth and togetherness with every sip. Its roasty and toasty notes come from chocolate and smoked malts, complemented by a generous heap of cacao nibs. The vanilla and roasted oats provide a velvety mouthfeel, while a dash of cinnamon rounds out the aroma with hints of marshmallow and graham cracker that will keep you coming back for s’more.”

Megan Jage, Lab Manager, Athletic Brewing