Beer of the Week: Lush
Years of still-underway R&D have gone into TapRoom Beer Co.'s berry-coffee sour
From the Beer Writer: Some beers are close to the hearts of the brewers who conceive them. Fittingly, they take them with them wherever they go, allowing them to transcend vocational notches on their résumés. Such is the case with a well-known kettle-sour from local fermentationist Daniel Cady that’s developed quite the cult following over the years. Fortified with raspberries and coffee, he originally developed the recipe while working at defunct Santee operation, Twisted Manzanita Ales. When Cady moved to Mikkeller Brewing San Diego, he brought his creation with him. Its intriguing adjunct combo fell right in line with the exotic beers in MBSD’s portfolio, so the Miramar operation brewed it up. It was an instant hit and became an unlikely flagship. At one point, the company was producing up to 1,400 barrels of the beer per year. Even with that level of success, Cady wasn’t satisfied. He felt further refinements were required, but there was an if-it-ain’t-broke situation, so that recipe was untouchable. Last year, Cady transitioned from MBSD to North Park’s TapRoom Beer Co., which has allowed him to go back the drawing board with his original recipe, tweak it and tap new iterations of what he now calls Lush in a brewpub environment. This involves incorporation of different complementary berries (the current version features raspberries and marionberries) and ever-changing java offerings from Dark Horse Coffee Roasters. The current version offers fruity flavors that come across a tad like red-wine grapes followed by light, cacao-like roasted-coffee notes and a super-dry finish. It’s hard to know exactly where Cady’s going with this one, but the journey toward his ultimate goal is a delicious one thus far.
From the Brewer: “Lush plays a pivotal role in our portfolio, as it comes with a firm stamp on our growth and evolution as TapRoom Beer Co. since entering the local brewing community. I am so excited to bring this beer to the table through the lens that I have been anxious to showcase. Since its conception back in 2015—prior to its commercial introduction in later years—I have tinkered with the base beer in my mind, trying to bring together elements that truly showcase the unique qualities and spirited deliciousness in the right ways. With Lush, I am excited to say that I am finally on the best course with the profile, seeking a more intense depth of fruit while dialing the multi-faceted expression of the coffee profile to a purring rhythm. Lush will continue to evolve until it is perfect, and we couldn’t be more excited to take that journey.”—Daniel Cady, Head Brewer, TapRoom Beer Co.