Beer of the Week: Inferno

I find it remarkable that, even having tasted thousands of beers over my lifetime, including more than my fair share of exceptional ales and lagers, some have made such a significant impression on my senses that they stand out. Not faintly. I’m talking clear as day in experiences my mind’s eye can conjure with extremely detailed clarity. Today I’d like to share two such memories. The first took place at O’Brien’s Pub in Kearny Mesa during a keep-the-glass event they ran with Belgium’s Duvel Moortgat. Somehow I had made it to the late twenty-aughts without ever trying that world-famous brewing concern’s flagship strong blonde ale, Duvel, and I was excited to do so. The bottle I purchased was served alongside a weighty chalice with high walls – a piece of glassware I cherish to this day. Doing visual math, I couldn’t figure out why they’d given me such a gargantuan glass to hold a standard bottle’s worth of beer, but as soon as I started pouring and watched a head of snow-white foam form a pillowy layer atop that golden liquid, I understood. I remember diving in, catching whiffs of flowers, spice and an almost dank earthiness that translated seamlessly from my nasal passages to my taste buds. It was an outstanding beer that helped me understand what inspired American brewers who were dabbling in Belgian styles and what were trying to replicate. But it wasn’t until I tried my first bottled offering from a local operation which centered around Belgian-inspired beers that I tasted something that matched Duvel. The place was French restaurant Cafe Chloe in the East Village, the brewery was North County’s then-formative The Lost Abbey and the beer was Inferno, a Belgian-style golden strong ale. Served in a white-wine glass as an accompaniment to my wife’s and my anniversary dinner, it sported the same thick foamage as Duvel and, to my surprise, tasted incredibly close to that iconic ale. As such, just as I remember exactly where I was seated and exactly what I was doing when I first tasted Duvel, I remember the sights and placement of that little, quartz-topped cafe table we were at when I discovered Inferno. Years later, when I worked for Stone Brewing and my coworkers and I would regularly visit The Lost Abbey’s nearby tasting room, we regularly chatted with Brewmaster Tomme Arthur about all sorts of things. One day, the subject of Inferno came up, when my coworker asked why they didn’t serve it on tap. Arthur explained kegging his homage to Duvel would be impossible given the high-pressure refermentation used to produce that trademark foam, and that bottles were the only way to go. As such, Inferno hasn’t been as available as The Lost Abbey’s other beers – much to my chagrin – especially in recent years as the company has moved its brewing operations from San Marcos to two different locations in Vista. But now that Arthur and his crew are properly settled in their current home, they were able to once again brew and bottle this special ale. I’m happy to share memories of it with you and highly recommend you giving it a try, as well…perhaps as part of a side-by-side tasting with a chalice of Duvel?

Inferno Ale is one of my favorite beers that we produce. And for those following along at home, it also has some of the most hellish imagery and label verbiage of any of our beers. The back label speaks to waking up in Hell and finding out that your ‘roommate’ is an axe murderer. Seriously! The actual beer was inspired by the many different versions of Belgian golden strong ale. We chose to nod in the direction of Duvel. A simple base of 2 Row barley and a substantial charge of brewing sugar makes this one deceptively easy beer to drink; bone dry with just enough hop presence to support the insanely crisp finish. As we have long practiced, this beer is highly carbonated, resulting in mad effervescence and pillowy foam. As a result, it is never served on draft, so we offer it in corked-and-caged bottles befitting its bubbly nature. Cozy up to one if you dare…the devil is in the details.”

Tomme Arthur, Co-founder, The Lost Abbey Brewing

The Lost Abbey Brewing is located at 1347 Keystone Way, Suite C; and its satellite taprooms are located at 2007 San Elijo Avenue in Cardiff-by-the-Sea, 1215 San Elijo Road in San Marcos and 1313 J Street in downtown San Diego’s East Village neighborhood