Beer of the Week: Rauch Me

Whether most people realize it, humankind largely adheres to a concept called situational drinking. During cold seasons and times of yule, we tend to seek out darker, heavier beverages that are higher in alcohol or, perhaps, served warm. Think red or mulled wine, whiskey, brandy, or in the case of beer, imperial stouts, barley wines and stronger, darker ales. Contrastingly, when it’s warm and sunny outside, people reach for lighter-hued, spritzer or otherwise highly refreshing options. Sparkling, white and rosé wine, seltzers, and cocktails based around vodka, gin or blanco tequila fit that bill. The beer category is readily equipped to slake spring and summer thirst preferences, as more than half of the world’s ales and lagers are of the golden variety, especially in San Diego, where the weather is typically ideal for low-alcohol lagers, pale ales and IPAs. Given the above, one would expect the head brewer at a beach town’s namesake brewpub to stick to sun-friendly beers, but Jim Millea at OB Brewery loves crafting a wide variety of beers whether or not they’re situational slam-dunks. Proof comes in the form of this week’s featured beer, Rauch Me. Not only is this German-style amber lager (a Märzen to be exact) out of sunny-season spec from a color perspective, but it’s brewed with smoked malts. The result is a chestnut-toned, medium-bodied beer that’s bready and caramely with a restrained but most definitely present smoldery element. You know, the perfect liquid pairing in board shorts and bikini territory. Obviously, this beer is not fit for situational-drinking, but it is delicious (not to mention a medal-winner at last week’s San Diego County Fair Craft Brew Competition) and one of the few examples of this style one’s bound to come across in San Diego. Rauch Me is a tasty outlier, a reason to go against the grain to discover something obscure which you just may end up loving!

I was inspired to make this beer several months ago when I stopped at South Park’s Bock beer bar. They had a helles Märzen by Schlenkerla on draft. On draft! Apparently, to make this beer Schlenkerla blends its classic Märzen rauchbier with its lighter helles lager. It’s an amazing, smashable beer, and if you asked me that day (and perhaps still), it would be my desert-island beer. I love the bold flavors of the classic rauchbier, but this beer was lighter-bodied and the smoke was present yet more subdued; perhaps a more approachable beer for some who are not a big fan of the smoke. A blend of two lagers was a bit ambitious for me, so instead I put a recipe together that I hoped would have a medium smooth smokiness balanced out with some light malty sweetness and low bitterness. I used just under 30% beechwood-smoked malt for that delightful smoke flavor and aroma. To round out the smoke, I used equal parts dark Munich and Cologne-type brewer’s malt to incorporate some bready malt character and a touch of honey sweetness. A pinch of chocolate wheat adds the amber color and a slight hint of chocolate roast. On brew day, I did a 90-minute boil with some light additions of Perle and Tettnang hops, and fermented the beer with the German-style 34/70 lager yeast. It hit the mark for me and I hope it does for all who try it!”

Jim Millea, Head Brewer, OB Brewery

OB Brewery is located at 5401 Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach