Portrait of a Brewer: Ryan Alvarez, Harland Brewing
Harland Brewing's head brewer shares some personal info and some good vibes
There are hundreds of hard-working brewing professionals giving their all to help maintain the storied reputation San Diego’s brewing scene has earned over the past several decades. Some have risen to great fame among industry pros and craft-beer enthusiasts. Some ply their trade in obscurity (and are more than happy to do so). Some are Instagram famous, trendsetters with cult followings that would rival social-media influencers. And while they share plenty of similarities, each is their own unique person with their own likes, dislikes, methods, techniques, inspirations, interests and philosophies. The goal of San Diego Beer News‘ Portrait of a Brewer series is to not only introduce you to local brewers, but to have some fun delving into the aforementioned areas so you can get to know them a little better and appreciate them and their contributions to the county’s standout brewing culture. All that plus stellar portraits from brewery lifestyle photographer extraordinaire Matt Furman.
Today’s featured brewer is…
Ryan Alvarez
of Harland Brewing
What is your current title?
Head Brewer
Where did you grow up?
Born and raised in Escondido. San Diego native, baby!
What was the first beer and/or alcoholic beverage you ever had?
When I was seven, I was playing at my friend’s house and became extremely thirsty. I ran inside and saw a can, and thinking it was soda or something, I grabbed the can and chugged it before my dad ripped it out of my hands. Turns out it was his beer and I just thought it was a soda, haha!
What was your a-ha moment that turned you on to craft beer?
My story began much like most people in craft beer. I had a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale at a wedding and it was on from there.
What led you to consider a career in brewing?
I was trying to figure out what I wanted to do in life when I was 23. I started homebrewing and was trying every single craft beer I could get my hands on. It was around this time I realized I wanted to work at a brewery.
Where did you first apply for a brewing job and where did you get your first brewing/brewery position?
My friend’s dad was the packaging supervisor over at Green Flash Brewing. He got me in over there and I started as a keg washer on overnights. I did nothing but clean kegs from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. and it was horrible, but it taught me how to work hard and grind.
What breweries have you worked for over your career and in what roles?
Green Flash as a keg washer, a member of the packaging team, cellarman and assistant brewer, Saint Archer Brewing as a brewer and R&D brewer, Pure Project Brewing as a brewer and, now, Harland as head brewer.
Who have been the individuals that have helped you the most to learn and advance in your career, and how?
Kim Lutz, the former head brewer at Saint Archer. She taught me how to problem solve and not just instantly ask for help. She helped with my recipe-development skills and really pushed me to be a better brewer. And Nick Marron, who helped me become a better leader within the brewery and also helps me with a lot of technical knowledge when it comes to the science of brewing in his role as director of brewery operations at Harland.
What singular piece of advice would you give to someone interested in becoming a professional brewer?
My words of advice would be to homebrew like crazy, meet people in the industry and network, and read and learn as much as possible. I would also inform them that it isn’t just hanging and drinking with your buddies; brewing is extremely exhausting and on hot days you have no AC and you’re standing next to a boiling kettle.
What ultimate career goal would you like to achieve?
If you asked me this when I first started in the industry I would have said to become head brewer. Now that I have achieved that goal, I am going to say to help Harland become a brewery that is known for creating world-class beer.
What is your favorite beer you’ve ever brewed, be it on a professional or amateur level?
Our foeder-fermented Japanese lager is easily one of my favorite beers I have ever brewed.
What is your least-favorite beer you’ve ever brewed on any level?
I brewed a beer at a brewery I won’t mention, but it was a West Coast triple IPA that people loved! I, on the other hand, would rather drink a beer in the lower ABV (alcohol-by-volume) range. I remember the dry-hop was huge for that beer and I always complained because I didn’t even drink it. I hated the beer. I hated making the beer. So, yeah, that was my least-favorite beer I have made.
What are your favorite and least-favorite hop varietals at present?
My favorite hop varietal currently would have to be Strata! My least favorite is Galaxy. It tastes like peanuts and I have no idea why people like that hop.
If you weren’t a brewer, what do you think you would do for a living?
I worked at the San Diego Safari Park before I got into beer and was an intern for the bird department, so I would say I would be working with animals.
In your opinion, what non-brewing position is of great importance at a craft-beer company but often gets overlooked or less credit than those making the beer?
For me, I would have to say packaging. It is my least favorite part of the job because it is so tedious and repetitive. It is also extremely important because we put so much effort into brewing and cellaring these beers, and if you don’t have a great packaging team that cares they could ruin it all.
What is your favorite beer style (you only get to pick one, though if you have to do a two-way tie, we’ll accept it)?
West Coast IPA all day!
If you could wipe one style of beer off the face of the Earth, what would it be?
Belgian Tripel
What single brewing company’s beers and/or ethos/style has been most influential on your style?
I honestly do not think I can choose just one, I like to think my brewing style is influenced by every brewery I have worked at in my career as well as my own creative juices. I like to think I have learned and taken a little from every place I have worked and also from brewing and making mistakes.
What is your favorite San Diego County brewing company?
The Burgeon Beer Co. family is easily my favorite in San Diego right now. You can find me at their location in Escondido every weekend.
What is your favorite brewing company outside of San Diego?
These are hard! I love so many breweries for so many different reasons, but as far as just being a well-rounded brewery, I would have to say Alvarado Street Brewery crushes every style of beer they make.
What three breweries that you haven’t yet visited—local or elsewhere—are on your current must-see bucket list?
Hudson Valley Brewery, Hill Farmstead Brewery and Cantillon
What are your favorite local beer events?
I love Mostra’s anniversary party every year as well as the recent North Park Beer Co. party!
If you were to leave San Diego, where would be the next-best place you’d want to brew?
I would have to say Idaho or somewhere in the Pacific Northwest.
Which musical genre or artists are on your brew-day soundtrack/playlist?
Katchafire, Anderson Paak and Silk Sonic
What motto rules the way you brew and approach brewing in a professional brewhouse?
I brew beer I want to drink. It is not always to style but I brew beers I like to consume.
When you’re not at work, what do you like to do for fun?
Hanging with my wife, fishing, gardening, camping and hiking.
Where do you like to drink off-the-clock?
My house and Burgeon Escondido, haha!
What is your favorite beer-and-food pairing of all time?
Barrel-aged grisette with a meat-and-cheese board
If you could somehow plan your last beer dinner before dying, what would you drink and eat, and who would you invite to join you?
I would be drinking all the saisons from Hill Farmstead, Side Project, etc. We would be eating some amazing smoked BBQ, and I would just invite all my family and friends.
Who do you think you are (a purposely broad question)?
I like to think I am a nice human being who is here on Earth to enjoy life and spread positivity and good vibes!