Many a San Diegan mourned the loss of Hamilton’s Tavern when a November 2020 fire laid waste to the South Park establishment, which had stood as a community touchstone and craft-beer haven serving enthusiasts and industry members alike for 14 years. Regulars and devotees were saddened to find out there would be no second coming for “Hammies” and fretted when the owner of the once glorious, now ravaged property put out a call for proposals from entrepreneurs looking to take over the site and install a new concept. But all fears were allayed when the 2021 announcement came that Brian Jensen, the local hospitality veteran behind the Bottlecraft family of combo bar-and-bottleshop venues, had come out on top and would be installing a brick-and-mortar love letter to quality ales and lagers.
Dubbed Bock (which translates to “goat” and references a strong form of lager originating in the German town of Einbeck), the new venue will be an intimate, neighborhood pub serving a balanced assortment of classic European ales and lagers alongside top-rate examples of contemporary styles from local and out-of-town breweries. Sourcing those selections will be second nature for Jensen’s team given their experience stocking Bottlecraft’s quartet of local bars over the past 13 years. Ditto Bock’s roster of German, Austrian and Alpine wines, and an assortment of alternative beverages that will include mead, cider, hard seltzer and kombucha.
It’s a concept that immediately generated excitement, particularly among those lamenting the loss of local beer-centric bars like Hamilton’s. And the buzz for Bock remains even though the project has gone far past its original estimated debut timeframe of late 2022. Jensen says immense fire and water damage coupled with unexpected building issues requiring significant rehabilitation and repair were the main causes for the venue’s delay. Through it all, he’s maintained his focus and passion for the project, and is happy to report that he and his team are entering the home stretch and hoping to debut Bock early next year.
“As this project has drawn out, it’s certainly been a test of patience, but I’ve stayed focused by recognizing how much San Diego needs more true craft-beer bars since the closure of Hamilton’s and spots like Toronado in North Park. It’s left an opportunity for a spot that celebrates great beer in a lively, welcoming atmosphere, and the aim is for Bock to bring that back in a big way,” says Jensen. “We have a vision I think people will appreciate, and knowing we’re getting closer to sharing that experience with the community is what keeps me motivated and excited, even though the finish line is still a little ways off.”
Jensen says he has done his best to make use of the extra time he has been provided, diving deeper into design plans with his architects and assorted consultants, while also finding what he deems the perfect culinary partner to handle Bock’s food program. That individual is chef Matt Schooner, who launched his popular food truck, Biersal, in 2017, following a life-changing excursion to Germany where his eyes and palate were opened to the symbiosis presented by beer and food. Over the past seven years, his primary focus has been working with local breweries to provide their tasting rooms’ patrons with a menu of German cuisine designed to pair with (and often crafted using) beer.
“I was specifically looking for a partner with a German influence, as we wanted to stick with a theme and break away from the pizza and burgers that so many beer bars offer,” says Jensen. “Matt is known for great food, and at Bock, he’ll offer a mostly German-inspired menu with dishes influenced by cities like Berlin, Munich, Bamberg and Frankfurt. That said, he’ll also incorporate some California inspiration and include foods from other beer-centric cultures, which will make the menu both authentic and diverse.”
“I’m pulling from recent travels for inspiration on where classic German beers will go well with our core menu. Working beer into the recipes when possible will also be a goal,” says Schooner. Specials will be the main vehicle for venturing beyond the norm, while special events geared around German celebrations such as Oktoberfest and Frühlingsfest will be cause for bringing out even more bierhalle classics.
Jensen and Schooner say the following items are representative of what people can expect from Bock’s everyday menu.
- Bamberger: A burger inspired by the smoked-malt beers of Bamberg, Germany, featuring crispy rauchbier-braised pork belly, Muenster cheese, arugula, caramelized onion aioli and house ketchup on a kaiser roll.
- Currywurst: A Berlin classic of bockwurst with caramelized onions and house curry ketchup served with a side of frites and aioli.
- Kofta Kebab Sandwich: Inspired by the ubiquitous kebab stalls across Berlin, it will include mixed beef and lamb kofta with garlic and roasted red pepper sauces.
- Zucchini Falafel Sandwich: Another nod to Germany’s kebab culture, it will be served with lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber, tahini, roasted red pepper sauce and sumac in a housemade vegan flatbread.
“Bock is a perfect fit for Biersal, where we can seamlessly pair our German-inspired cuisine in the right setting. I’m looking forward to reaching new customers as well as bringing out fans of Biersal to our new location,” says Schooner. “I’m thrilled to be a part of this historic space in South Park, where I myself have many great memories of sharing pints with friends. Hopefully we can keep that tradition going and create a great experience for our customers.”
Jensen admits there is a certain degree of pressure bringing a new beer-focused concept to such hallowed grounds, and stresses that he’s not looking to steamroll or replace something that meant so much to so many.
Hamilton’s was iconic and everyone – myself included – has fond memories there. I’ve had a few people practically beg me to keep it exactly the same, but that’s simply not possible with the fire damage and reconstruction. We’re essentially starting with a blank canvas, and I know comparisons to Hamilton’s are inevitable. That said, we’re not trying to recreate or replace it. Instead, we’re taking what we loved about Hamilton’s and blending it with new elements to hopefully make Bock a part of the community for the long term while still honoring the spirit of what made Hammies special.”
Brian Jensen, Owner, Bock
In terms of aesthetics, Bock will will feature woodwork from Helvey Design Studio, stained glass components and artwork centered around goats. There will be booths of varying sizes, televisions tuned to sports, a pool table and shuffleboard. Jensen wants it to feel old-school at its core with a fresh, updated facade. It’s not rocket science, but it’s novel in this day and age and something Jensen feels South Park – and San Diego – could use a little more of.
“Everyone loves a comfortable spot to relax, watch a game, go on a date or hang out with friends; a true neighborhood bar where you can come as you are,” says Jensen. “San Diego has seen a lot of ornate, high-concept bars open up that feel more like fine dining or Disneyland than a local pub. I want to bring back that neighborhood pub experience, and for me, beer is central to that.”
Bock will be located at 1517 30th Street in South Park